#transcript #steam-machine #bc250 #mandicreally #youtube Full transcript of [I Built a Steam Machine Faster and Cheaper Than Valve's](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1fLg-coaVrQ) (MandicReally, 2026-09-06, 23:15), captured from the video's uploaded `en` caption track. Auto-generated captions may mangle product names — verify part numbers against the description links. Distilled version: [[DIY Steam Machine BC-250 Build]] --- Channel: MandicReally · uploaded 2026-09-06 · 23:15 · https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1fLg-coaVrQ ## Description Mandic Labs 2.0 is supported by: 🔥 Prusa3D – http://www.prusa3d.com/#a_aid=MandicReally ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Valve's Steam Machine is $1,428. Mine cost $828, hides behind the TV, and beat it in the Cyberpunk 2077 benchmark! I built this DIY Steam Machine around an ASRock BC-250 mining card, SteamOS, custom cooling, and a 3D printed case designed for couch gaming. Full testing, overclocking, and benchmark data is in the Mission Debrief for members: Free BC-250, Snowman cooler, and case 3D models: https://www.printables.com/@MandicReally/ Thanks to @snazzy for benching the @Valve Steam Machine! ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Parts Used: ASRock BC250: https://ebay.us/47L9aq Snowman MC78 cooler: https://amzn.to/4xFTT7J Arctic P92 fans: https://amzn.to/3STh67g Apevia 500W FlexATX PSU: https://amzn.to/4gQKHWG Thermal Grizzly Basic Putty: https://amzn.to/4iffpvk Thermal Grizzly phase sheet: https://amzn.to/4gQKIKe Ugreen DP to HDMI (CEC & VRR): https://amzn.to/4hdFJoo 8BitDo Ultimate2 Controller: https://amzn.to/3Tkl5tH Linksys WiFi 6 extender: https://amzn.to/4dot9jQ Wireless remote + latching relay: https://amzn.to/4AgSWof 2TB NVMe SSD: https://tiddly.xyz/zhWFG Prusament PETG: https://mrly.link/prusament Prusament PCCF: https://mrly.link/prusamentpc Prusa Core ONE 3D printer: https://mrly.link/coreone Affiliate links. Costs you nothing, helps the channel! ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Check out more MandicReally projects, merch, and ways to support the channel: 🌐 https://www.mandicreally.com/links 🙏 Special thanks to @multiboard_io for supporting the studio as well! : https://than.gs/u/234635?affiliateCode=mandicreally ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ 🎥 My Filming Gear (Affiliate Links): Main Camera – https://bhpho.to/3Tgv82T Main Lens – https://bhpho.to/4xJYo14 Action Cam – https://bhpho.to/3UGiwT5 Wide Lens – https://bhpho.to/4ym5PeE Lavalier Mic - https://bhpho.to/4fm0R8V Studio Mic – https://bhpho.to/3UF6ysX Voiceover Mic – https://bhpho.to/46uECsE Tripod – https://bhpho.to/3PSKXY4 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ 🧪 These are my real-world opinions based on hands-on use. Some links are affiliate links, which means I may earn a small commission—at no extra cost to you. Not a paid endorsement unless explicitly stated in the video. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ ⏱️ TIMESTAMPS: 00:00 - Intro 00:24 - The BC250, Heart of our system! 01:05 - Why build it? 01:56 - Testing Used Hardware 02:35 - Making the BEST BC250 CAD Model! 03:49 - Modding the Stock Cooling 04:58 - Improving the Cooling 06:10 - Overclock & Unlock Testing 07:37 - Space Limitations & Crossflow Cooling 09:20 - Raygun Case Design & Printing 10:47 - Case Assembly 12:45 - Power Supply Module 13:37 - Living Room Install 15:08 - CEC Pass-Thru! 15:42 - Wifi... Failure. 17:02 - Noise Level Testing 18:20 - Performance & Beating Valve! 19:57 - 8-Cores aren't worth it... 20:50 - Couch Power On 21:14 - The Price 21:46 - Uncomfortable Truth... 22:16 - Wrap-Up 22:47 - Outro #mandicreally #steamos #bc250 ## Chapters - [0:00](https://youtu.be/1fLg-coaVrQ?t=0) Intro - [0:24](https://youtu.be/1fLg-coaVrQ?t=24) The BC250, Heart of our system! - [1:05](https://youtu.be/1fLg-coaVrQ?t=65) Why build it? - [1:56](https://youtu.be/1fLg-coaVrQ?t=116) Testing Used Hardware - [2:35](https://youtu.be/1fLg-coaVrQ?t=155) Making the BEST BC250 CAD Model! - [3:49](https://youtu.be/1fLg-coaVrQ?t=229) Modding the Stock Cooling - [4:58](https://youtu.be/1fLg-coaVrQ?t=298) Improving the Cooling - [6:10](https://youtu.be/1fLg-coaVrQ?t=370) Overclock & Unlock Testing - [7:37](https://youtu.be/1fLg-coaVrQ?t=457) Space Limitations & Crossflow Cooling - [9:20](https://youtu.be/1fLg-coaVrQ?t=560) Raygun Case Design & Printing - [10:47](https://youtu.be/1fLg-coaVrQ?t=647) Case Assembly - [12:45](https://youtu.be/1fLg-coaVrQ?t=765) Power Supply Module - [13:37](https://youtu.be/1fLg-coaVrQ?t=817) Living Room Install - [15:08](https://youtu.be/1fLg-coaVrQ?t=908) CEC Pass-Thru! - [15:42](https://youtu.be/1fLg-coaVrQ?t=942) Wifi... Failure. - [17:02](https://youtu.be/1fLg-coaVrQ?t=1022) Noise Level Testing - [18:20](https://youtu.be/1fLg-coaVrQ?t=1100) Performance & Beating Valve! - [19:57](https://youtu.be/1fLg-coaVrQ?t=1197) 8-Cores aren't worth it... - [20:50](https://youtu.be/1fLg-coaVrQ?t=1250) Couch Power On - [21:14](https://youtu.be/1fLg-coaVrQ?t=1274) The Price - [21:46](https://youtu.be/1fLg-coaVrQ?t=1306) Uncomfortable Truth... - [22:16](https://youtu.be/1fLg-coaVrQ?t=1336) Wrap-Up - [22:47](https://youtu.be/1fLg-coaVrQ?t=1367) Outro ## Transcript **[0:00](https://youtu.be/1fLg-coaVrQ?t=0)** Right now, there's a DIY steam machine in this room running Cyberpunk 2077 at 4K 60, and you can't even hear it or see it from the couch. But it’s still powerful enough that it beat the Steam Machine in this benchmark. Oh and it costs almost half as much as Valve's offering. We just have to build it. ♪♪ “Trust the Process” - Ballpoint ♪♪ The heart of our gaming setup is going to be this dusty, weird system on a board that costs me less than $200. That's cheaper than 16GB of Ram, **[0:35](https://youtu.be/1fLg-coaVrQ?t=35)** which this has, is selling for right now. And it came with an SSD. Now... If you're into Linux gaming, you're probably familiar with the Asrock BC 250. But did you know that in just the last two weeks there's been a new performance unlock for this? Apparently. There are two more CPU cores on this processor just waiting to be unlocked. That means there's potentially more performance to be squeezed out of this thing than we knew before. We just need to build and validate a whole system around it. Why? Well, a little TMI for you. **[1:07](https://youtu.be/1fLg-coaVrQ?t=67)** I have a small hernia. Having a clue how that could have happened. [ grunts dramatically for strength ] ♪♪ “Through the Prism” - Ava Low ♪♪ anyway. Surgery is not an if. It's a when. I have forced downtime coming my way and I am not great at sitting still. My current studio and home office PCs are also work computers, so it's way too easy to fall back into working. So to keep my mind active and my body at rest, I want a console like gaming experience for our living room. valve has their sleek, **[1:40](https://youtu.be/1fLg-coaVrQ?t=100)** excellent box, but it's $1,400 and I'm paying for surgery out of pocket. So DIY it is. But unlike some other DIY Steam Machine projects I've seen, I want none of the trade offs of building my. That's where this weird crypto mining card comes in. This is a product of the last great hardware apocalypse AsRock made them for miners, that's kind of fallen by the wayside. So they're readily available right now, but they are used hardware. So I need to check this thing out, validate that it works well, and get some baseline performance numbers for our testing moving forward. After a bit of fiddling, I was able to get steam OS installed **[2:18](https://youtu.be/1fLg-coaVrQ?t=138)** and then load up an indie title “DREDGE” to get some gameplay testing in. Ran this for 20 30 minutes just to ensure that the hardware was stable and working, and check baseline temperatures so we can then design a better cooling solution than just two fans pointed at a heatsink. To do that, I want to take better look at the overall setup and make a better 3D model to reference off of. There are a handful of 3D models of this board out there, but they basically all lack detail. The memory chips on the back of the board, the CPU on the front of the board. **[2:55](https://youtu.be/1fLg-coaVrQ?t=175)** They just don't have what I need to do, what I want with this project, and I want to help the community out. To do that I'm going to get a little far away from my work. going to set the PCB on my workbench. I'm going to do two things. One, I'm going to set a ruler next to it, trying to be as square and parallel to it as I can with I'm also going to put a framing square next to it for a bit of framing reference. ♪♪ “Peacewalker” - ELFL ♪♪ The goal is to climb up the ladder and use a telephoto lens on my phone camera to get a less skewed image of this PCB. I can bring that into Autodesk Fusion **[3:32](https://youtu.be/1fLg-coaVrQ?t=212)** as a canvas aka reference image to draw around. Combining that with a lot of tedious measuring allowed me to create what I think is currently the most detailed and complete 3D model of the BC 250 out there. With our detailed model done, we are almost ready to design a case around this. I say almost, because we're aiming to get the max performance out of this that we can. So we're going to have to upgrade the cooling solution. I'm not 100% what that looks like yet, and I can't design a case without knowing what cooler is going on it. **[4:06](https://youtu.be/1fLg-coaVrQ?t=246)** What I know for sure right now is the stock cooler is not going to cut it. Now what will cut it is a bandsaw. ♪♪ “Domo Arigato” - Lofive ♪♪ [angry bees cutting metal] I'm sure some folks are wondering “Why the heck would you cut that perfectly good heatsink on a bandsaw and hand deburr it?” Well, there's more hardware on this PCB that needs to be cooled than just the processor, for instance. A big heat source is these GDDR6 Ram chips on the back of the PCB and stock. And stock they **[4:39](https://youtu.be/1fLg-coaVrQ?t=279)** only use this flimsy flat piece of aluminum backplate to cool them. If I cut that heatsink into three pieces, I can take the former processor section of it and put it on the back side of the PCB, covering all of those Ram chips versus some random heatsinks. I would just stick onto each of the Ram chips individually. And now two bonuses: The threaded bosses for that center section are still poking through the same holes, so I can use those as mounting threading points for my new adapter to put a better heatsink on And the VRM cooling sections at each end, **[5:14](https://youtu.be/1fLg-coaVrQ?t=314)** are still intact. So once again, I'm not putting together some kludgy heatsink assembly. I'm reusing the stuff that I know already works on this particular application and mounts securely. To thermally connect our coolers to the board. We're going to be using Thermal Grizzlies Basic Putty. This is a thicker thermal paste that takes the place of thermal pads, and should work really well for any minor variance in heights. The processor cooler that I'm going to be going with is this Snowman MC-75-8** It's an eight heat pipe, low profile cooler that I haven't seen. Talked about a lot, **[5:47](https://youtu.be/1fLg-coaVrQ?t=347)** but it's only $30 and I'm hopeful it's going to tame the beast here. To connect our die to the cooler, we're going to be using this Thermal Grizzly PhaseSheet TM. This is their version of these newer thermal pads that are so good at transferring heat they can replace thermal paste. [Precision Tightening Sequence] With the cooler mounted and a little bench setup put together here, we can get to testing this thing for overclocking and unlocking potential. That said, I'm **[6:19](https://youtu.be/1fLg-coaVrQ?t=379)** not going to bog this video down with all of my testing and benchmarking. If you're interested in that nerdy level of detail, it's going to be in my mission debrief, the post episode episode where we discuss what went right and wrong and in this case, a lot of testing. For the rest of us, let's cut to the chase and let you know where we landed on the final results of that testing. ♪♪ “Quite Unique” - Tigerblood Jewel ♪♪ To help you understand my configuration. I want to give you a little background here. This processor on the BC-250 has long been assumed to be the same chip that's in the Sony PlayStation 5. The specs match up really well, **[6:52](https://youtu.be/1fLg-coaVrQ?t=412)** except that shipped with eight cores and this has only six. Or does it? You see it turns out those two additional cores are on the processor waiting to be enabled. But as these chips are suspected to be chips that didn't make Sony's cut, not all of them can reliably enable those cores and work. Mine can. I was able to get all eight cores working on my setup, and the GPU has what they call compute units. It ships with 24, but there are more of those on there too. I was able to unlock mine to the full 40 that it has, really unleashing the computer horsepower of this thing. **[7:29](https://youtu.be/1fLg-coaVrQ?t=449)** But I'm going to hold off on telling you the overclock and all the final setup that I landed on, as well as benchmark results. Until we're sure this is working reliably in the living room. About that setup. My goal is for it to be stealthy, hidden between the backside of the TV and the wall behind That gives me only four inches of depth to work with, but it should keep that nice clean, not impeding on our day to day life design that I want. It is, however, going to require a cross airflow design. That said, the BC 250 is great for that. It was originally designed for that type of airflow path **[8:05](https://youtu.be/1fLg-coaVrQ?t=485)** used in a server rack, with a stack of these next to each other. Mining cryptocurrency. Obviously, though, I have modified it and you might have noticed that the Snowman cooler doesn't look the greatest in earlier shots. That's because I hand bent all of the fins on the heatsink array to be opened up on the end. Originally they were enclosed for a downdraft system. I opened them so airflow can actually travel through them the way I need it to. that's for this yet more janky cardboard ducting design comes in. This is part of my preliminary testing to **[8:40](https://youtu.be/1fLg-coaVrQ?t=520)** ensure that this is going to work at all, and I wasn't wasting my time. I started off with a pair of Arctic 8038 fans that move a ton of air, but are also angry fans. I've landed on the P9s from Arctic. (P9 92mm PWM PST) They are a much more subdued sound profile, but still move a fair amount of air. Not as much as those 80mm, but I'm hoping they'll cut the mustard here. [Reasonable Air Noise] All that said, working on the bench in an air conditioned studio. It's not the same as being squished up against the wall behind the TV. **[9:15](https://youtu.be/1fLg-coaVrQ?t=555)** So we got a design, 3D print and build the case for this. To make sure it's going to work. The design I landed on looks to me like a video game raygun, which honestly fits. The shape came out of two things. It wraps tightly around the hardware because I have limited space behind the TV it's modular, so if I want to change out the fans or the power supply or just redesign the airflow path, I can change individual sections and not have to redesign the entire case. Let's get the parts printing so we can assemble it and see how it all goes together. **[9:49](https://youtu.be/1fLg-coaVrQ?t=589)** To do that, I'm sending prints to most of my Prusa print farm. Studio sponsor and sponsor of this video. Projects like this really highlight how excellent it is to have this printing hardware available to me, running off all these modular sections, one piece on one machine allows me to power through what would otherwise take days to as this is going to be in a warm section behind the TV with the hardware inside of it being warm. I'm using Prusament PETG for the main case structure. and PC-CF for more specialized higher strength and higher temp components. **[10:27](https://youtu.be/1fLg-coaVrQ?t=627)** I was a little worried this project was going to end up in a bunch of iterations and printing these parts over and over again, taking a lot of time, but I was able to power through printing all of the main case components in a single night. Set up the prints run while I left and came in the next morning to them done and ready to assemble. ♪♪ “Astrophage” - Lupus Nocte ♪♪ This assembly process is relatively straightforward. Brass threaded heat press inserts go into the various parts. ♪♪ “Rescue Mission” - Lupus Nocte ♪♪ And then in between sections, there are raised ridges that will allow for alignment between those sections, rather **[11:03](https://youtu.be/1fLg-coaVrQ?t=663)** than relying on flat faces mating up together perfectly. This interconnects them a little bit. Before the board gets tucked away and not seen again, I want to put a new SSD in it, one that'll actually fit my Steam library. In this case, I'm going with a 2TB NVMe drive. This should be relatively fast and fit my current steam library. Hopefully in the future, hardware prices come down and I can afford a larger drive without taking out a mortgage to expand my library. Now this case design is far **[11:38](https://youtu.be/1fLg-coaVrQ?t=698)** and away about airflow more than it is serviceability. So it kind of has to be shoehorned into place to really assemble correctly. But once this is all together, should really control the airflow And if you stare down the barrel of this thing, I think you can kind of see what I mean. There's really no choice but for airflow to travel through the heatsinks to get from the front side. I'll the way out to the back side. Ventilation. To adapt the fans to actually blow into this thing. **[12:13](https://youtu.be/1fLg-coaVrQ?t=733)** There's this neck down piece, this adapter piece that goes on the front fans will go on here, but they have their own housing. It'll come in a second. [ Mrly.Link/lttstore ] The one modular section I most expect to play with is this section over top of the heat sink. I'm half covering it right now, so airflow is forced through the heat sink at least halfway before it can vent, but I don't know if that's going to achieve what I want or not. [ Mrly.Link/lttstore ] [Vent all the air!] **[12:46](https://youtu.be/1fLg-coaVrQ?t=766)** Last piece of the puzzle is the power supply module. Going in here is an Apevia 500 watt Flex-ATX power supply. I put the same unit into my ITX home office build last year, and I don't have any complaints about it. It’s also cheap, which fits the budget here, and I already had a 3D model of it that I made when I produced that build last year. ♪♪ “Red Driver” - Ben Elson ♪♪ And I almost forgot the real last detail is [satisfying click] the magnetic fan filter on the front. the real last detail is the magnetic fan filter on the front. **[13:19](https://youtu.be/1fLg-coaVrQ?t=799)** With that last detail snapped in place. Our case is complete. It doesn't look like any of the other BC250 cases I've seen out there, and I'm all right with that. It's meant for a very specific installation situation and designed to fit that. I think it'll make way more sense once we get it set up. So let's go do that. We're going to be mounting this behind our Hisense 65 inch 4K TV. It's nothing particularly special, but it does have 4K 60 and a variable refresh rate capability. For the class of hardware we have here **[13:51](https://youtu.be/1fLg-coaVrQ?t=831)** that should be perfect. Mounting this in the stealthy way that I want, racked my brain a little bit, but I finally landed on these mounts that will be sandwiched by the VESA mount for the TV. I printed them in Prusament PC-CF, which will handle the temperatures behind the TV just fine, and it's a really nice rigid material. Now filming myself installing these is not the easiest thing, being sandwiched between a TV and a wall, but I do have a really important note for you if you're undertaking something like this, support the TV. [OOPS] **[14:22](https://youtu.be/1fLg-coaVrQ?t=862)** Wooooo [nervous chuckle] That was almost disastrous. Don’t do that... [laughing at own stupidity] Once everything is secure the Steam Machine on top of those mounts and screw the machine to them. But it wobbles... [weeble wobble woo] I anticipated this problem so I came up with this mount that just screws to the top and VHB tapes to the back of the TV. Making it way more secure. [oooo aaa] **[14:58](https://youtu.be/1fLg-coaVrQ?t=898)** [clearance check time] Yesss With room to spare. With the steam mounted, it's time to get it wired. The most important component back here is going to be this UGREEN DisplayPort to HDMI adapter. It costs more than some cheaper options, but I got it because it allows CEC data to be passed through. That's the protocol that will allow SteamOS to send input signals to the TV to make it power on, and switch to the right input, like any other gaming console or Valve Steam Machine would. **[15:35](https://youtu.be/1fLg-coaVrQ?t=935)** This is one of those steps that so many DIY builds seem to just hand wave off and skip that I really wanted in my project. ♪♪ “Astrophage” - Lupus Nocte ♪♪ With display and power handled. There's something we need to talk about that I've been putting off. My setup... Can't really use Wi-Fi. There are only two USB3.0 ports on the BC2 50 and being used Hardware. Mine has two flaky USB 3 ports. One of them fails back to USB 2.0 speeds no matter what you plug into it, and the other one will connect at the proper speed, but it drops in and out. **[16:10](https://youtu.be/1fLg-coaVrQ?t=970)** There must be a controller issue on the board, something I don't know. I literally spent DAYS trying to get it working and I couldn’t. So what I've landed on for networking when it comes to my Steam Machine is a little kludgy, but it works. I got this Linksys Wi-Fi 6 extender that can connect to the Wi-Fi network in my house. I can run a network cable from it to my Steam Machine and get decent network speeds. I have Wi-Fi 7 in this house, but getting a Wi-Fi 7 extender would have blown the budget, **[16:42](https://youtu.be/1fLg-coaVrQ?t=1002)** and there's only a 1Gbe port for networking on the BC 250, so it wouldn't take advantage of that speed anyway. This is unfortunately a risk of used hardware. I could probably buy another board that would be fine, but it would blow the budget and my board actually unlocks and overclock shockingly well. So let's get to testing the Let's get a quick baseline noise level. Miso: [squeak squeak squeak] Let's get a quick baseline noise level so we know. [squeak squeak squeak] Let's get a quick baseline noise level so we can hear. **[17:15](https://youtu.be/1fLg-coaVrQ?t=1035)** [ I love this dog... I swear... ] How much the fans are interrupting our day to day life. [The irony of my scripted words matching Miso interupting me was too much for me...] Are you helping? Miso: “Of course I am Dad!” [shhhhhh] Now we'll turn the system on. And I'll crank the fans up to 100%. [I mean I hear them... but it ain’t bad] so a five decibel increase. Totally noticeable in this space when it's quiet. **[17:50](https://youtu.be/1fLg-coaVrQ?t=1070)** However, when you're actually playing a game. Well, first of all, the fans aren't going to be at 100% all the time. They're varying in speed, but there's also gameplay audio that drowns them out almost entirely. And there's thermal headroom left here. for me to dial things in a little better. I think my fan curve currently has the temperature on the GPU, maxing out at about 77°C when it throttles at 85. I've got quite a bit of room there to play with my fans a little bit. Alright **[18:21](https://youtu.be/1fLg-coaVrQ?t=1101)** let's talk about what everybody's been waiting to hear: Performance and Price I want to get the nerdy tech specs of the hardware out of the way, because they really make a difference in my results. I landed on a CPU clock of 3.85GHz and a clock GPU of 2.2GHz, with all 40CUs of the GPU The main benchmark I focused on was Cyberpunk 2077, because it's a game I genuinely really enjoy and want to play on this system. Here are the presets that I used for its in-built benchmark and what I've been playing the game at on the stock hardware, I landed at 34.84 average FPS. **[18:59](https://youtu.be/1fLg-coaVrQ?t=1139)** I was sweating bullets when I got that result, because I was really hoping my final result could be 4K 60 range. So boy was I glad. After all the overclocking and unlocking and cooling testing, I landed at 68.74 FPS average in the benchmark. JUST shy of doubling the performance of this thing. But wait, there's more! I asked Quinn over at the Snazzy Labs YouTube channel to run the same benchmark with the same settings. He has an official Steam Machine. He ran that test and resulted in 63.65 average FPS. Meaning my hardware is 8% faster. **[19:37](https://youtu.be/1fLg-coaVrQ?t=1177)** Now of course, that's one benchmark, one game. There are plenty of other things I could have tested, or I would bet valve will probably beat me. They have a warranty on theirs. A little bit better connectivity. There's a lot going there, but I built what I wanted a gaming experience for myself that plays the games I want to play beautifully. All at a cheaper price that we'll get to in a moment once I walk something back here. Those 8 Cores? I’m not using them... The reality is that in my testing, I found, 8-cores **[20:11](https://youtu.be/1fLg-coaVrQ?t=1211)** didn't make a difference for gaming workloads. I was a GPU limited, not CPU, so more cores doesn't really gain me anything. My benchmark results showed run to run variance differences, maybe an FPS here or there gained, but I was seeing 5 to 10°C CPU temperature increases, meaning more heat to deal with in my cooling system. More power draw. It simply wasn't worth it for gaming. If I was doing a local LLM or trying to do some other compute workload, maybe it would be beneficial. **[20:48](https://youtu.be/1fLg-coaVrQ?t=1248)** For gaming? I didn't find it to be so. One last final note before we talk price. I wanted the match Valve feature for feature with my build. I didn't hit the mark when it came to Wi-Fi thanks to those bad USB ports. But when it comes to powering this thing off and on from the couch, I can do it! I just use a cheap little wireless remote and latching relay inside the case. $12. Got the job done. Now I just hope I don’t ever lose this remote. The answer to the ultimate question is not 42 in this case, **[21:19](https://youtu.be/1fLg-coaVrQ?t=1279)** it is $828. That's how much it would cost to build this again today. Including the board, the 2TB SSD, all the parts I used are listed in the description. Even the filament is included in that. You can check my math if you want to. Compare that to Valve’s Steam Machine, the 2TB version at $1,428 w/ the controller, I came in at $600 on the nose, cheaper than Valve for more performance. The uncomfortable truth is that... I actually paid a lot less than that. I picked up this board for $160 a couple of months ago. **[21:55](https://youtu.be/1fLg-coaVrQ?t=1315)** Today it's $300. A couple of other YouTubers since I started making this video three weeks ago, have put out videos that really drove the price of this board up and change the math on my price pretty significantly. I was closer to 50% the price of Valve. It is what it is. I know I'm only making it worse right now by making this video. I'm sorry. All right. $828. That's the big thing to me. Along with beating Valve on that benchmark that I never expected to equal them on, let alone beat them. **[22:28](https://youtu.be/1fLg-coaVrQ?t=1348)** I'm thrilled with the results of what we put together here, and I'm ready for the recovery stage of my surgery. The rest of it, big question mark on that. But for now, I'm going to go play some games and have some fun with this thing. I am so pumped to have this ready to roll. That said, usually I'd walk out of frame at the end of the video, but. uh, Get Subscribed to ensure your 3D prints don't fail! It's not a guarantee, but it can't hurt! I'll see you all in the next one. I'm gonna go game now. ♪♪ “Deep Space Samurai” - Forever Sunset ♪♪ What are you still doing here? **[23:01](https://youtu.be/1fLg-coaVrQ?t=1381)** Bye! Nori, Say bye.