*from u/ellafoxo on Positron3D Discord* ## PID for Heated Bed PID values for the heated bed. Use these instead of using Klipper's PID calibrate: ``` [heater_bed] control: pid pid_kp: 126.13 pid_ki: 4.30 pid_kd: 924.76 ``` ## NeoPixel Klipper Untested -- no idea if this is insane or not or even what it does?? ``` [neopixel sb_leds] pin: nhk:gpio7 chain_count: 3 initial_RED: 1 initial_GREEN: 1 initial_BLUE: 1 initial_WHITE: 1 color_order: GRBW ``` ## Wiring Goals [Prusawire Cable Management Mods by telefaksi \| Download free STL model \| Printables.com](https://www.printables.com/model/1374187-prusawire-cable-management-mods/files) ![[Pasted image 20250805124906.png]] ## "Deracking" Take off the toolhead, bed, puller, and top idlers [9:06 AM] also take off the bumper block at the back [9:07 AM] Pull the gantry off the printer and loosen all but the two front M5 screws [9:07 AM] Put the gantry back on the printer Then loosen the two front screws (edited) [9:07 AM] Move it up and down a bit and drop it down (edited) [9:08 AM] Tighten the two top screws, followed by the front two [9:08 AM] Then take the gantry off the printer again to get at the two rear M5 screws [9:09 AM] Put your idlers back, followed by the door puller and bumper block [9:09 AM] When you move the gantry up and down, you shouldn't feel any resistance. When the gantry bumps the top of the machine, it should bump it equally on both sides [9:10 AM] When all that's done, the bed and toolhead can go back on [9:10 AM] Actually. For the bed [9:11 AM] Keep your bed off. Take a flat solid surface. Be it a metal ruler, a gauge block, or something where you know it is solid and flat [9:11 AM] Loosen your Y front and rear rod holders fully [9:12 AM] Place your flat surface on top of the front rod holder first, at the point where it contacts the top of the frame. Get it so the rod holders sit flush with the top of the frame [9:13 AM] Tighten the screws once you feel it is smooth and flush. Repeat for the other Y rod holders ![[Pasted image 20250805124623.png]] ![[Pasted image 20250805124711.png]] ![[Pasted image 20250805124754.png]] ## Belts! When it comes to the belts, it is SUPER important that both your X and Z belts have identical length. You can check this with a tool that you can find under the Prusawire Credits collection on Printables. Match your belt lengths before assembling the printer! That way you will have an easier time at this stage When inserting the belt clips, there should be equal number of teeth sticking out of the ends. Yours may look different to mine (you probably have more length). Be sure that the X and Z belt are equal. DO NOT cut your belt until you are 1000% certain you have done it correctly. It's okay to leave a little at the back for changing parts out later (edited) [Belt Runner - GT2 Belt Length Matcher by AÞ 🇮🇸🇬🇧 \| Download free STL model \| Printables.com](https://www.printables.com/model/1192440-belt-runner-gt2-belt-length-matcher) ![[Pasted image 2`0250731182308.png|250]]![[Pasted image 20250731182316.png|250]]![[Pasted image 20250731182329.png|250]] There are two belt tensioning screws located on the left side of the carriage. These feed into the heat sets of the accent part. Loosely insert them before putting the carriage on the rail block ![[Pasted image 20250731182118.png|250]]![[Pasted image 20250731182223.png|250]] When tensioning your belts, you should start to see the slack pulled up at approximately half way across the X carriage block. ==Before getting to final tension, TRIPLE CHECK your belts to make sure they are riding correctly on the bearings across the whole printer! If they aren't, loosen and correct them== if the screw bottoms out, which it might, you can try a screw that is fully threaded, or try tensioning your belt a little more during initial install ==For more belt tensioning if you don't have a fully threaded screw, please try changing the M3x40 for an M3x30== 1. ==Failing to do this will result in your belts grinding to dust and your printer behaving badly== ![[Pasted image 20250731182006.png|250]]![[Pasted image 20250731182035.png|250]]![[Pasted image 20250731182042.png|250]]![[Pasted image 20250731182016.png|250]] ## Matching Belt Tension by Eye Visually inspect your X carriage belt tensioner. If your belts are not stretched, you should see that the two tensioner blocks are almost in line with one another. Come to the front of the printer and inspect the right side of your X carriage. Your belt teeth should align with one another. If they do not, make minor adjustments to the tensioner screws until they do. ==Follow up with tuning your belt tension with a meter (Prusa's meter or a PF Makes Belt Tensioning meter)== ![[Pasted image 20250731181913.png|250]]![[Pasted image 20250731181921.png|250]] ## Adjusting SuperPINDA Before calibrating your Z offset, bring the nozzle all the way to the bed. Your probe should be seated 2mm approximately above the bottom of your nozzle. Don't forget to tighten the SuperPINDA screw ![[Pasted image 20250731181839.png|250]]