## Erik's Testing ### 2025-08-31 - A1 Mini - Running OrcaSlicer Flow Rate Calibration - 0 looks fine - - Running OrcaSlicer Flow Dynamics (k) Calibration - Test parameters: 0.00 to 0.10 (0.005 step size) - 0.07 looks the best currently A combination of tips from https://makerworld.com/en/models/30241-overture-petg-filament-profile-p1s-x1c#profileId-83007 and Reddit solved the problem! ==Don't check the box for flow rate dynamic calibration when printing.== TL;DR Do the Flow Dynamics calibration in OrcaSlicer from 0.00 to 0.10 (0.005 steps). Build off of "Generic PETG" profile. Settings I used: - Flow Ratio: 0.968 - Enable Pressure Advance - Pressure Advance 0.07 (do your own calibration and use your own K here) Nozzle first layer: 260 Nozzle other layers: 255 MAX VOLUMETRIC SPEED (10mm/s) (this was critical for me and others!) Cooling: min fan speed treshold: 25% / 30s max fan speed threshold: 70% / 6s min print speed: 20 mm/s overhangs and external bridges fan speed = 90% ## To Try IF Needed 1st layer height 0.28mm, 1st layer line width 0.56mm, 1st layer flow 1.03. Your flow should be around 0.96-0.97, MVF at 10, you can probably turn pressure advance off and let your firmware control it. Retraction 1.2mm at 45mm/s for speed and deretraction. Zhop 0.2mm. Travel 140-200mm/s. And I think the key to it all is "accel to decel", set this to 80...without that I think youll find it w constant flow, PA and retraction issues that are just out of reach. ## MakerWorld PETG Profile [Overture PETG Filament Profile (P1S/X1C) by Roland Deschain MakerWorld: Download Free 3D Models](https://makerworld.com/en/models/30241-overture-petg-filament-profile-p1s-x1c#profileId-83007) ## Copied from Reddit #1 tl;dr: DRY YOUR FILAMENT, calibrate, don't use IPA, slooooow down, crank the heat. Valuable lessons learned: 1. You're going to get frustrated, just keep your cool, and troubleshoot one thing at a time. 2. Don't just use someone else's settings, calibrate your own. 3. Dry the filament. Even if it's brand new, or you live in a cold climate. Get it, open it, dry it. If you don't have a way to dry filament, just stop here and find a way (I use a food dehydrator) 4. If you have the textured bed, use dishsoap and water leave to dry while the filament is dehydrating (Or use a power duster). Do not use IPA, do not pass go. 1. Some commenters have had no issue with IPA. Mine's been fine with IPA after this, but cleaning with soap did make a large improvement on my new bed. I'd give it at least one wash to see if it benifits your adhesion. 5. Crank the heat. I put mine up to about 270, bed at 85. 1. Some comments are suggesting to start at 250-255 and only crank it up if you start to see curling 6. Run flow calibrations. Write the k value down somewhere, it doesn't save. I write mine in sharpie on the spools. 1. Other in the comments have pointed out to try Orca slicer. I have not used this myself, but seems like a valuable tool. It will save your K values. 7. Check/clean your nozzle. I heat the nozzle to 220 and use a cheap, small wire brush. Do all the above before you even start fiddling with other settings. Might seem basic to some, but these were the most important things that got me 90% of the way there, and you can do them all before even testing a million prints, like I did. Now, this was working for some parts, but not the full plate part I was attempting to print. I had wondered at this point if it was a bed issue, or a file issue, or blah, blah blah, but looking back it was my settings. If I had not been printing a full plate I would've stopped here and thought good enough, and then run into failures later. - Start with the generic PETG profile. This will already set many things for you. Test a large first layer print ([I used the Honeycomb storage wall](https://www.printables.com/model/152592-honeycomb-storage-wall) for the bambu plate). - Change the bed and nozzle heat and save the profile. Tweak one thing at a time. - Now watch the print and look for things: - If you didn't crank your heat up, and you see the filament curling as soon as it comes out and wrapping, crank your heat up until you don't notice a curl. - If it's printing with a matte finish, crank your heat up, it should look glossy. - Excessive stringing: you're printing too quickly, or too hot, or both. Drop speed first, then temp. - On adjusting speed, many will go straight to the bed speeds. These are very specific speed limits for certain parts. I prefer to drop overall speed from the volumetric speed limits in the filament profile. This way I only need to switch filament profiles instead of changing the bed profile. - This setting is all the way at the bottom of the filament profile. Looking around online, many suggest 4-10, usually around 8 or 10 for the max speed setting for PETG. - Some have suggested in the comments to run in silent mode. This seems to work as well, but I prefer a dialed in profile if possible. - First layer is missing filiment. It's either not adhering, or you're printing too fast. - Did you dry your filament? (4 hrs did not cut it for me, do it overnight) - Did you wash the bed with soap and water and let it dry? - If so, maybe we're printing too fast, now let's adjust the the bed speed settings (left tool bar).Start around 50 first layer, 100 first layer infill, then drop these by 10 until you see improvement. This is what got my honeycomb wall printing well. My final adjustments were: - Nozzle Temp: 260 - Bed Temp: 80 - Max volumetric speed: 8 - First layer: 30, initial infill: 80 - K value (This is very important, do not use my stock value, please calibrate your own! Takes 20 mins): .04 Good luck!